Spring Awakening 4

More Photos!

 And so, Spring Awakening has finished! And, once again, I've learned so much! I am quite happy with how everything turned out. Of course I always get a bit frustrated with my sewing, but I know that the more I do this and practice and learn how things come together, the better it will get! For a first Victorian gown, I think it's pretty good!

The main thing I would change in looking back is the center front -- we needed a zipper opening as I wrote before, but it all looks a bit off center. The zipper is centered, but because it is a lapped zipper, the stitch line is off center. Especially with the thick fabric used in the front panels, I think it would have been better to off-set the zipper a bit in order to compensate.

In speaking with one of my professors, I learned that the puckering in the front can be caused a number of things: Seizing up in the because of the cording, a bone that is not quite long enough, problems in the flat-lining. Because this only seems to be happening on one side, we decided that it is most likely the cording...and thinking back, this was the side where I had to re-try putting on the cording a couple times before I got it right....so there ya go!

The rippling in the back is probably caused by the bones being a tad bit too short...I'm not entirely positive, but this seems likely. I learned that you can stitch across the bottom of the bone casing to keep everything secure and in place...seems pretty obvious, but I didn't think of it, so it's good to note for next time!

Though I like the pleating in the back, I liked it better in the muslin...different fabric, different behavior. I think for the silk I should have worked a bit more on the angle of the pleats. As it was, I didn't have enough length to work with it more. Again, live and learn!

Interesting note: I was worried that the sleeves were a little too tight, but we decided it was ok. After the first dress rehearsal the actress was actually a little bruised in the crook of her arms from the sleeves! I felt awful!! But, apparently the combination of the tension there and the type of fabric -- this fabric is thick, strong, and holds a fold-- created enough pressure to bruise. In a different kind of fabric this would have been fine. Crazy! So, I opened up the sleeves a bit to create more room and all was well. Just something interesting and unexpected...and a crazy demonstration of the power of fabric!

The costume looked great on stage -- everything seemed to move nicely. Things to be happy about, things to work on and lots learned! All is good!

Masks!

After finishing the latex mask (photo soon to come!), we worked on two more mask types: paper mache and thermo-formable. Both were started with a clay sculpt, just the same as the latex mask. The paper mache mask was built directly on the clay sculpt. We sealed the clay with a spray shellac and then began covering it with layers of paper mache. (50/50 water and white glue).

 

Once there were about 5 layers of paper mache, we cut the mask in two to get it off the form and then sealed it back together. After about 5 more layers, it was set to be painted. 

Thermo-formable mask:

 We covered the thermo-formable plastic with leather and then painted it with leather dye and lined with felt.

Spring Awakening Cont. 3

The Corset -- Almost finished!

Again, I'm really happy with how this is turning out -- it's almost there! I still need to finish cross-stitching the lace on the inside, add a waistband on the inside, and add this super fancy applique to the outside top edge. Phew! I think where I still get the most frustrated is with my stitching...I've definitely gotten infinitely better in just this past year and a half, but I'm still very much a beginner...it all just takes time and practice and I must always remind myself that nothing is perfect the first time you try it! :D がんばってね！

Spring Awakening Cont. 2

Fabric fitting:

Not too many changes to make -- I will be making the collar a bit shorter and working with the skirt pleats a little to see if I have enough fabric to make them a bit deeper -- the fabric is just a lot thicker than the muslin. Almost there!

Spring Awakening Cont.

The muslin fitting:

A good fitting! I was really happy with how everything turned out. The pleats on the skirt need to be readjusted a bit in the back. The bodice needs a little adjusting -- a little more space where that drag line is above the bust. A bit of reshaping of the seams in front to curve a bit more over the bust down to the waist. Bringing the armscye in the back a bit in to create a bit of a narrow shoulder illusion. I was least happy with the sleeve and collar...mainly, I didn't have as much time with them as I would have liked, so they just weren't quite up to snuff. I'll re-work the collar completely and take a look at the sleeve pattern. Collars do tend to be my weak spot...I'll just keep working at them, crazy collars!

Spring Awakening -- the beginning

And so it begins again! I began working on my next big build last semester in December. I have an 1890s era hot pink corset to construct, as well as a black Victorian bodice and skirt. The trick here is that I was unable to do any fittings until this term...with the show coming up in mid-February, there was no question that I had to start building the corset in the actual fabric and get as far as possible.


The corset:
 I did a lot of research into different corset shapes and patterns and ended up draping it. The corset the designer wanted me to use as an example is from the 1890s and is sort of a conglomerate of earlier corsets and the more modern ones. It has gussets at the bust and the back hip and a straight busk. I constructed it out of two layers of coutil and one layer of fashion fabric. The trick was the bone casings...we wanted top-stitching to be a part of the corset design, so I had to stitch very carefully by machine, moving from the bone channels in the center out to the edges so that the corset would remain smooth. I had to sort of curve the corset while stitching, in order to maintain the shape it would be over a body...without the right amount of ease between the layers, wrinkles and bubbles could be created. I wasn't completely successful with this, but I do understand the concept behind it and I think it just takes some practice.

What I learned? Don't use the industrial machine! I chose to use this machine because of all the layers...I thought it would sew a lot easier, and it did. However, it would have been easier to maintain that curve with a free arm machine rather than one built into a table. Live and learn!

Once I got the channels sewn I stitched the panels together. There are ten panels total, with a front opening busk as well as lacing in the back. I basted each panel together before attempting to stitch by machine -- there were just a lot of layers to deal with as well as some tricky curves.

Next I stitched in the gussets...lots of careful sewing, but I think they turned out pretty well. Again, difficult because of all the layers.

Once those were sewn in it was time to insert the busk.

I stitched a sort of temporary grommeted and laced closure in the back, just in case things would have to move once I had the fitting. 

I thread-marked the top and bottom hem and it was ready for the first fitting.

The Gown:

Thankfully I was able to at least drape the gown before winter holidays. I'm really happy with how the drape turned out. I spent a lot of time making sure the dress form was padded as accurately as possible because of the fitting situation. I marked my style lines carefully and went over them with the designer to make sure it was exactly what she wanted. All ready for draping, I began my work. I have to say I was just really in the zone for this drape. I was excited for it and I just had a really good idea as to what I wanted to do with it. Last year I had done something similar, so I was feeling a lot more confident than I have before. In about 3 hours I had a half drape of everything but the sleeves and collar. I left it there for the break knowing that once I got back I could easily pattern it and make myself a mock-up to be fitted within the first week of school in January.

I should mention a little about the character -- this is the adult woman in the show -- the only adult woman in the show. This is her teacher look -- strict, German, simple but proper. The bustle is subtle -- she is a working woman and things need to be practical! This is also when the bustle is going out of fashion. The corset will be worn underneath and will be featured in a scandalous reveal! Due to this, I also have to make the bodice easily removable...so far we're thinking center front zipper, which should work great, even if it's not quite period! ;)

Tailoring II -- Vest and Trousers

I finished drafting the pattern for my trousers and vest and had my first fitting a couple weeks ago. Once again I'm making these things for my boyfriend, Matt. I decided to do a double breasted vest with a collar...mainly because I've never done a double-breasted anything and I could use more collar practice...plus the vest is pretty awesome. It's based on a 1890s vest draft. For some reason all of the drafts that we could find do not include a full collar -- it always seems to go into the shoulder seam. We know there were and are most definitely vests that have full collars, so I'm not sure what's up with this...anywho, I had to drape the collar to figure out how it all works with the vest.

So, here's Matt at the first fitting -- everything went pretty well! I'm really happy with how the trousers turned out. They have pleats and cuffs (again, just wanted to try some things I've never done before). We've decided that this crazy conglomerate of time periods and styles has equaled Captain Nemo. So here's Matt as Captain Nemo, fitting number 1!