Thursday, May 16, 2013

Final Crit -- Spring 2013

Year two is done! I'm looking forward to a restful and productive summer and then the start of my third and final year as a masters student!

Tailoring -- complete!

I also finished my vest and trousers for Tailoring class. Again, I'm very happy with how everything turned out -- I think Matt looks quite dashing! I'm very pleased with the trousers -- everything went very smoothly. I had to try putting in the fly a couple of times, but I think I understand how it all works now. The vest, in general, went smoothly. I hit a snag with the collar. I think that in the chaos of the term, when I was doing my pattern corrections, I never ended up truing the collar to the body of the vest. Can't believe I forgot to do that somehow! At any rate, the collar just wasn't quite long enough to get where it had to, so I ended up adjusting the pattern and just re-making it. Once the collar was fitting and on I hit another snag. I had clipped the facing a bit too far at the notch. Again, so frustrated about this! So, as I did and do not have time to go back and re-cut and hand stitch the facing in again, I had to settle for a lapel that just doesn't quite sit right...again, I've learned my lesson.

On the whole though, I'm feeling like I understand collars, notches, and lapels a whole lot better having struggled through this. So, next time collar, I'm going to show you who's boss!

The Amphibian Unitard -- complete!

I finally finished the amphibian unitard! Yay!

So, to summarize the whole process:

1. Patterned the unitard -- I checked all the measurements in comparison to the dress form I was using and to the unitard I had already made to make sure the ratios looked correct. I draped a hood pattern and melded that with the unitard to create a hooded unitard.

2. Dyed the fabric -- I dyed the white miliskin a neon green and dark blue. For the green, I mottle-dyed the fabric with blue and yellow, using shibori and selective dipping of the fabric. I then over-dyed the whole thing with florescent yellow. The dark blue/green is a combination of navy blue, turquoise, and all got a little too dark, but I think it's fine.

3. Silicone-spotted the blue pieces -- At first I just made sheets of fabric with silicone...then I found that it was way more efficient and controllable to cut out the pieces and then silicone them instead.

4. Stitched the unitard together to make sure it fit and to place spots.

5. Basted on foam. Basted one layer of miliskin over the foam and finally basted the silicone-decorated material over that.

6. Took unitard off the form -- took out basting stitches so that unitard could lie flat.

7. Machine-appliqued the dots into place using a walking foot -- this was extremely challenging! I had to use the walking foot or it just didn't move, but fitting everything under that foot as well as the machine was probably one of the most exhausting things I've sewn!

8. Stitched the unitard back together.

9. Inserted invisible zippers at the shoulders

10. Stitched on the hood.

11. Prepped the sleeves with thumb-gloves.

12. Stitched on the sleeves.

And there you have it! A great learning experience building something completely from the bottom up. I had a lot of fun making this and I'm really happy with how it turned out! And thank you to David for being an awesome model!